Part 2 in a series on trousers. Part 1 is here.
I spent this morning with a German-speaking friend translating the inventory of garments and fragments identified as trousers in “Die Gräber der Moscevaja Balka”. [1]
Construction pattern for Moshchevaya Balka trousers. Image © 1996 Editio Maris. Used for educational purposes only and without permission.
Trousers in this inventory have a length of between 60 and 70 cm, with widths varying from 60 to 90 cm. All appear to be constructed with the same cut; two long rectangular pieces oriented on the grain for legs and a large diamond – shaped center gusset.
A close examination of the photo of the first pair of trousers (195) indicates a double-turned hem on the waist edge. I assume the leg hem has the same treatment applied.
It isn’t possible for me to tell from the photo how the gusset was sewn to the legs. I would assume a running or double-running stitch, with the seams being finished with flat-felling. This is a treatment consistent with other garments in these finds.
The narrow belts are interesting. Having worn reconstructions of these garments, I don’t feel particularly secure with merely belting the trousers and hoping they don’t fall off. Any bending or sitting and the waist of the trouser pulls loose from the belt. It was suggested to me that the top of the waist was rolled over and secured under the belt. I have also worn it this way and it is much more secure.
Something to understand with rolling over the waistband is how that would impact the attachment of the leggings garters. That is something I hope to experiment with in the near future.
Unterkleidung für Männer und Frauen (Under garments for Men and Women)
Trouser Inventory
| “195. Hose aus dem Begräbnis 1/8Inv. Nr.: Kz 6702Maße: L. (max.) 60cm; Br. 90cm
Leinwand; gegürtet mit einem schmalem Gurt aus zusammengefaltetem Leinwandstreifen sowie mit Schlaufe und Stoffknopf versehen.” [2] |
195. Trousers from the 1/8 burialInventory Number.: Kz 6702Dimensions: L. (max.) 60cm, Width 90cm
Linen, fitted with a narrow belt of folded strips of linen, and with loop and fabric button. |
| “196.Hose aus dem Begräbnis 1/1 (am Leichnam)Inv. Nr.: Kz 6645
Maße: L. ca. 70 cm Derbe Leinwand; mit einem Gurt aus Leinwand-streifen (ähnlich wie bei Nr. 195; Unterteil in die Strümpfe hineingesteckt.” |
196.Trousers from the burial 1/1 (on body)Inventory Number: Kz 6645
Dimensions: L. 70 cm Coarse linen, with a belt of linen strips (similar to No. 195). The lower part tucked into the stockings. |
| “197. Hose aus dem Begräbnis I/5a.Inv. Nr.: Kz 6820Maße: Br. (max.) 61 cm
Fragmentierte Hose aus Leinwand; ein Gurtfragment erhalten (ähnlich wie bei Nr. 195—196.)” |
197. Trousers from the burial I/5a.Inv. No: Kz 6820Dimensions: Width (max.) 61 cm
Fragmented linen pants; a preserved belt fragment similar to No. 195-196. |
| “198. HoseInv. Nr.: Kz 4860Maße: L. 60 cm; Br. (max.) 80 cm
Aus derber Leinwand, fragmentiert.” |
198. TrousersInv. No.: 4860 KzDimensions: Length. 60 cm, Width (max) 80 cm
Of coarse linen, in fragments. |
| “199-200. HoseInv. Nr.: Kz 4781, 4798Maße: Br. (max.) 70 cm
Aus derber Leinwand; weitgehend fragmentiert (abgerissene Stückchen).” |
199-200. TrousersInv. No: Kz 4781, 4798Dimensions: Width (max.) 70 cm
Of coarse linen, extensively fragmented (little torn up pieces). |
| “201. Puppenhose aus derber LeinwandInv. Nr.: Kz 6728Maße: L. 7,5 cm; Br. 10 cm
Literatur: Ierusalimskaja 1987” |
201. Dolls trousers of crude linenInv. No.: 6728 KzDimensions: Length 7.5 cm, Width 10 cm
Literature: Ierusalimskaja 1987 |
Yeah, I agree about the detached belts, I just don’t get how they stay on at all. Even with the rolled over waist. The Thorsbjerg also has a rolled over waist, and has 5 belt loops, and they still give the guys grief….and they aren’t even getting on and off of horses.