Klappenrock: a viking jacket

Klappenrock sketches

I’ve been wanting to make a short viking coat (sometimes called a Klappenrock) for my husband for some time.   The jacket is loosely based on the cross over coat worn in some of the dancing man depictions as well as various other stone carving and artifacts.

I started out making a couple of sketches.  I’m terrible at drawing, but I like to get my ideas out on paper so I can work out some of the detail and get the garment firmly fixed in my brain.

The garment is rectangular constructed.  As I was thinking it through, I spent a lot of time debating on whether or not I would add side gores in because of the coat on the dancing men are fitted fairly close the body.

Wool for Klappenrock

I have some medium weight wool that I thought would be nice for a first try at this shorter type of coat.  It’s a beautiful twill in green and cream.  Not sure where or when I picked it up but I  have two good sized chunks of it so I think it must have been a Mill Ends find, although it could just as easily have come from Pastiche.  The look of the coat comes from the strong border decoration,  so I paired it with a lovely solid green wool.  Embellishment would be subtle.  I wanted something that would show up nicely against the green so I chose a light brown wool yarn to go with it.

Sleeve, showing embellishment.

Cutting and assembly of the coat went very easily.  It was one of the rare times when a project just all falls into place without a lot of hassle.  I was able to cut it out and get it fully assembled in about 4 hours one evening.  I was even able to start on the handwork.  I’m attaching the border to the body of the garment with a small blanket stitch.  Here is a picture of the stitching on the sleeve.  I’m not sure what that white piece of fuzz is.  Funny how I only see those things when I’m editing the picture.

I’ve been debating about whether I’m going to add any fur on the collar and/or cuffs, and I think for this one, no.    I have a second coat planned out that will have more embellishment and also I’ll be using fur.

In progress

The husband in his new klappenrock.

Here is the coat assembled (with the exception of the back of the neck edge binding) and being worked on.  The dark green border is pinned and it’s somewhat wrinkly because I had it stuffed in a bag to take with me to an event.

Next time, I would change the way I have the contrasting fabric trim on the back of the neck.  I basically skipped the entire question by just not having anything there.  It’s folded and stitched.

Also, it is highly likely that I will follow Peter Beatson’s instructions for construction.  I recommend that you do too.

Other than that, my husband likes it and thinks it comfortable, and that is an excellent result for a first attempt.

Tags: costume, research, viking